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BANGKOK, Thailand — Just a couple of hours after I arrived at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport, and just a couple of holes into an epic golf adventure, my caddie at Thai Country Club was teaching me my first words in the local language.
“Tok sai.” In the sand.
This teed up my playing partner, tour guide and Canadian expat, AJ Easton of Asia Golf Experiences, for a line that is no doubt well-worn: “You can’t come to Thailand without hitting the beach!”
Thailand has long been a hot spot for tourists of all types, from sun-seekers to foodies to history buffs. It’s known for its beautiful beaches, bustling markets, rich culture and delicious cuisine and is nicknamed the ‘Land of Smiles.’ If you are looking to visit a temple, there are 33,000 or so to choose from.
Over eight jam-packed days, I discovered why Thailand is also considered the premier golf destination in Southeast Asia. You’ll meet people here who are passionate about the sport and fiercely proud of the way their homegrown stars are performing on the LPGA Tour and other pro circuits.
You’ll find tour-calibre courses and superb conditions, even outside of a peak season that spans November to March. You’ll find reasonable rates, coupled with locker-room amenities and a level of service you expect at only the swankiest of clubs.
You are paired with a personal caddie at each course, and you’ll head home wondering how the heck you will ever play another round without one. They are, as Easton puts it, “the secret weapons of the golf scene in Thailand.”
“Just the whole experience, the hospitality, the culture mixed in, I think that sets it apart from what you might get in other parts of the world where you just turn up and plop your clubs on the back of a cart and off you go,” said Easton, who was born in Calgary, spent his youth in Vancouver and has been living in Thailand for the past 20 years. “You feel like a superstar, right from the bag drop. It’s like they have been looking forward to seeing you for days, it really is.”
“Aim for Buddha.”
The instructions from my caddie seemed simple enough. As we stood on the eighth tee at Chee Chan Golf Resort, not far from the city of Pattaya, the target was hard to miss. This par-4 is backdropped by Khao Chi Chan, a flat-faced mountain that has been laser-engraved with a Buddha image. This spiritual landmark measures more than 100 metres in height.
One of the great things about this game is you can play golf almost anywhere in the world. But when you haul your clubs halfway around the planet, it’s not just about chasing birdies and pars. It’s about exploring the place, about meeting the people. It is, in Thailand’s case, about marvelling at the architecture, artistry and intricate detail inside the walls of the Grand Palace.
My caddie at Nikanti, a popular stop because the round comes with access to an all-day, all-you-can-eat buffet, pointed out I’d have more time to see the sights if I wasn’t struggling with my flat-stick. “You putt too many,” she teased with a wicked grin.
I did, indeed, miss my share of shorties, but every golf tripper should put their score near the bottom of the priority list. If your loved ones and friends are anything like mine, they may ask only one question about the fairways-and-greens portion of your getaway — ‘Was that a giant Buddha you were hitting toward?!’
That doesn’t mean the courses in Thailand aren’t worth writing home about, because many absolutely are. International visitors can score access to some of the top private tracks in the Bangkok area, with Thai CC and Alpine among the headliners. Tiger Woods has won tournaments at both.
In the hills outside of Hua Hin, a favourite beach retreat for the royal family, the signature hole at Pineapple Valley provides a stunning view across the land border at the mountains of Myanmar, formerly Burma.
In Pattaya, you’ll quickly understand why the LPGA Tour stars adore the Old Course at Siam Country Club, a charming tree-lined layout that plays host to the Honda LPGA Thailand. Bangkok’s Patty Tavatanakit topped the leaderboard at the latest edition, the equivalent of Brooke Henderson or Nick Taylor triumphing on Canadian soil.
On TV, I watched Tavatanakit tear up the Old Course at Siam CC in February, posting a four-round score of 21-under. After visiting the course, I realized how impressive that was considering how small the greens are.
To make the most of a golf trip to Thailand, I connected with Easton, co-founder of a company that builds customized golf packages and itineraries to six countries in Asia, which include tee times, accommodations and a dedicated driver for the duration of your stay.
Trying to see all that Thailand has to offer in eight days is like trying to reach a par-5 in one swing, but we did our best. I snapped a gazillion photos as I toured the Grand Palace and Temple of the Reclining Buddha, two of the must-see attractions in Bangkok. I watched monkeys swing from the rooftops in Hua Hin and had a seafood dinner just steps from the beach in Pattaya that I won’t soon forget. I saved room, like I did at most meals, to have mango and sticky rice for dessert.
When I hit the links, I tried to avoid hearing the first Thai phrase I learned, something repeated frequently over eight rounds on this memorable trip.
“Tok sai.” In the sand.
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